Every time I drink Lanson I forget to write my notes. I always get carried away with something else. Deep yellow in the glass, Lanson is spellbinding in its tropical fruit-driven character. I love the black label and find the whole royal story stately and glamorous. In fact have always loved this wallflower of the Champagne district. Most recently when I tasted it I smelt caramelised fruit, with tinned peaches and pineapple on the palate. There was also a surprise touch of cinnamon bun yeastiness to it. If you don’t like fruity wines, you will hate this. You will crave a more restrained drink like Bolli or Veuve, but I love it.